In search of the perfect dark skies, we hit the sites in Sierra Madre, Philippines for multiple nights of astrophotography using SeeStar S30!
Astrophoto… what?
The thing I like with astrophotography is that the light I am seeing left that deep space object many many years ago. Take for example the nearest major galaxy to us, Andromeda Galaxy. It took the light 2.5 Million Light Years of travel before it got captured on my sensor. Seeing images on my camera is like traveling back in space and in time!
Why Sierra Madre?
The longest mountain range in Philippines, it spans from the province of Cagayan down to the province of Quezon. The area east of Metro Manila has lush jungle, karst formations, and rivers snaking around the landscape. Even then, there are settlements dotting the mountain range.
Given its proximity to the metro, it is surprising that you can get really dark skies– Bortle 4 to 5! Skies dark as that have a really awesome (in both old and new sense of the word) starry sky.
Itinerary
The astrophotography nights were divided into two stages. First one involved us staying overnight in a glamping site and the second stage had us joining a night hike in a georeserve site.
The plan is as follows:
- Stage 1: Gabriel’s Sanctuary (https://www.facebook.com/Gabrielsanctuary/).
- Friday afternoon: drive to glamping site,
- Friday evening: set camp; dinner; setup camera; start getting deep space pictures
- Stage 2: Masungi Georeserve (https://www.masungigeoreserve.com/)
- Saturday morning: break camp; brunch; sleep
- Saturday afternoon: drive to georeserve site
- Saturday evening: hike and take deep space pictures
But, as with everything in life, no plan survives first contact.
Glamping in Sierra Madre
Original plan is to be at the Gabriel’s Sanctuary, the glamping site, by 1700h.
But, life happened. We ran very late, and finally, with supplies, astrophotography gear, and food in tow, we arrived at the site by 2000h.
Until now, am super thankful to the owner and to the staff who waited for us.
The route was pretty straightforward. Except for the minor part where we had to hit a dirt trail “too gnarly” for, Blu, our trusty red EcoSport, everything was smooth. Locals were very friendly and guided us to the correct route and even accompanied us to the camp site, around a short uphill hike from the parking lot.
If driving, this is the route recommended by the locals: https://maps.app.goo.gl/dZihvD6aMfF4UY6D8. Do not follow Google Maps’ recommendation unless you are on a small 4×4 or on offroad capable motorcycle.
After a briefing by the kind owner and the staff, we took a cabin and started setting up our gear. There are no other campers so we setup out cameras and telescope in the space afforded to tents.
We took deep space subexposures (“subs”) from 2100h until 0100h. We were able to get subs for NGC 4631 “Whale Galaxy” (30mins worth of data), M92 Cluster (62mins worth of data), and M51 “Whirlpool Galaxy” (60mins worth of data).
We then spent around an hour post processing what we can. Exhausted we went lights out by around 0200h Saturday.
We woke up at around 0800h, packed up, said good bye to the staff, and then drove back. There was a light rain earlier in the day so the route back is very muddy. Heavy vehicles not built for thick mud will have a very difficult time climbing out of the area around the parking lot. We were on a light city vehicle and had to be very creative to climb the steep muddy uphill portion of the route.
We were back in the highway at around 1000h. We loaded up on petrol at Shell Boso-boso (https://maps.app.goo.gl/VudSC61kxNx2E2t86) and had brunch at Soya Bar Boso-boso (https://maps.app.goo.gl/6uX7ZzFgej5TpVAZA)
1200h we were back in our home base, cleaned up, recharged our stuff, and rested.
Night Trek in a Georeserve
After a 4hr rest. we started preparing for a night trek in Masungi Georeserve.
Celestial Nights, as they call it, is a joint offering by Masungi Georeserve and Philippines Astronomical Society (https://www.instagram.com/philippineastronomicalsociety).
One part of the program involves night trek with rangers giving us tidbits on the karst formations and nocturnal creatures.
The other part involves talks about meteors, meteorites, and how ancient people used the stars to navigate and tell the seasons.
Oh, and there is lots of food. So much food.
We arrived at Masungi Georeserve at 1830h. Call time is at 1900h. While waiting for the rest of the participants, we setup our telescope and took some quick exposures.
Here is the location of the Georeserve: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EEvy2UMF284GzQfu5.
Even at the parking lot, it was super dark already! The view evokes this passage from Asimov’s Nightfall (https://sites.uni.edu/morgans/astro/course/nightfall.pdf) when Theremon looked into the window and was awestruck by the stars –
Through it shone the Stars! ….
Thirty thousand mighty suns shone down in a soul-searing splendor that was more frighteningly cold in its awful indifference than the bitter wind that shivered across the cold, horribly bleak world.
By around 2045h (almost an hour late than the supposed start time), all the participants are complete and the hike started.
The hike started with a fast walk to the briefing area where we were informed of the do’s and dont’s plus given helmet. Followed by two river crossings via wobby hanging bridges and going up endlessly on staircases set among the jungle and the karst formations.
After 15min or so, we arrived at a cave where we had a 1 hour break. During the break, we snacked on local glutinous rice delicacies, roasted marshmallows, and hot chocolate. We also got a lecture about meteor and meteorites. We even saw a meteorite that pre-dates the solar system.
The ranger then motioned me and my partner to head-out and setup our telescope in advance of the rest of the hiking group. We took our duffel bags and backpacks and continued the hike.
We initially thought it would be far. But less than 10min away is the platform where there will be a lecture on stars. This is where we will be setting up to take an hour long worth of subs.
Like the a stage set atop the weathered limestone formations, the northern part of the platform have mats and pillows where participants can lounge while listening about the stars. We setup in the southern edge of the platform, by the guardrails.
This will be the first time we will be “looking” south… and that is a problem– we’re not familiar with deep space objects to the south!
Fortunately, members of Philippine Astronomical Society are quite familiar with that sector of the sky. One of them suggested to aim our telescope towards Carina Constellation. In that area lies Carina Nebula also known as NGC 3372. It is around 8.5k light years away from Earth.
After a couple of trial and error, we started collecting subs beneath the procession of an awesome starry sky and an unblinking moon casting silver light across tha landscape.
For me, it’s my first time observing the complete rise of the constellation scorpio from the coconut tree up until Maui’s hook! Past lives (aka getting lost in the mountains of Switzerland with only the objects in the sky to guide me) came rushing back to me.
The lecture ended past 2300h. We were ushered down the platform, but before we exit by a steel bridge, we got a chance to view the moon with a telescope setup by the kind folks running the show. Viewing the moon with just glass- no electronic screen- is a totally different experience. I can actually see the air shimmer and how it distorts the view of the pock marked lunar surface!
After a few more hike, we got to the dinner area to stretch and have our evening meal. I got the vegetarian option and it was delicious. I should have asked what the recipé is.
Around midnight, we cleaned up and headed back into the jungle for a short hike back to the briefing area and eventually to the exit.
We were back in the car around 0030h Sunday, inspired by the view, happy with the experience, and our bellies full. This is an experience I’d recommend to anyone who loves outdoors and stars.
By 0200h, after carefully descending the mountains around Tanay and Antipolo, we were back in our homebase, cleaned up, and slept.
Work starts in a couple of hours.
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That’s it for now! Two full days of astrophotography adventures. Looking back, we should have created a viewing plan so that we can get subs for deep space objects that are in “prime viewing condition”. Also, we’re seriously considering on upgrading our vehicle from EcoSport to a Jimny. The pro is it is more offroad capable but the con is we lose a bit of storage space.
If you are interested, here are the shots we took from this two day astrophotography trip:
Until next time!
-🐻さん
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